Macon, Georgia

Welcome to Road Trip, a special series where we get to vicariously go Rockin' Down the Highway with antiMusic's Kevin Wierzbicki as he takes us along on his road trips to various rockin' locales that played an significant part in the history of rock n roll, highlight that history or music's heritage. (Unless noted all photos are also by Kevin - click on photos to enlarge). 
 

Aah, Georgia on my mind. I must admit, I have a soft spot in my heart for her charming belles. Then there’s that down-home cookin’. Fried green tomatoes, anyone? But alas, this trip wasn’t to be about matters of the heart or tummy. Georgia has an extremely rich musical heritage that spans all tastes; mournful hill music from Appalachia, crazy crunk from Atlanta and hipster rock galore in Athens, the home of the University of Georgia. It’s all celebrated in Macon, itself the home of sweet soul music and “southern rock’n’roll,” at the Georgia Music Hall of Fame. 

Tucked amongst the antebellum houses that surround downtown Macon is a modern building that to some represents a history that is far more interesting than tales of a nation-dividing Civil War. Much larger than you might expect, the Georgia Music Hall of Fame (GMHF) offers 43,000 square feet of jaw-dropping displays, many of them interactive. The amount and variety of memorabilia here is stunning; this is a place to come well prepared with lots of film or a digital camera with a large capacity. How could you possibly leave without a picture of Little Richard’s red suede shirt or Brenda Lee’s dollhouse? Then there’s Ronnie Milsap’s Braille edition of Playboy (I know, I know! But it’s just the text that’s in Braille!) There are dozens of outfits worn by other stars, hundreds of guitars and other musical instruments, countless gold and platinum album awards, a zillion one-of-a-kind keepsakes and autographed everything. There is even a case full of vintage recording equipment. You probably already know that some of these artists are from Georgia; others might surprise you. Take a deep breath to get through this list: James Brown, Ma Rainey, Ray Charles, Otis Redding, Johnny Mercer, Lena Horne, Gladys Knight, the Allman Brothers Band, the B-52’s, Black Crowes, Jermaine Dupri, Indigo Girls, Alan Jackson, OutKast, Joe South, Ray Stevens, Travis Tritt and Trisha Yearwood. And that actually is just scratching the surface. The Gretsch Company, manufacturer of musical instruments, has been located in Georgia for over 20 years, and this year they have installed a huge display of their craft at the GMHF. Donated by the likes of George Harrison, Billy Gibbons, Stephen Stills, Chet Atkins, Randy Bachman and Brian Setzer, row after row of glistening guitars shout “I’m the coolest one!” It’s impossible to pick a favorite, but one of Bo Diddley’s funky rectangle models is right up there. Obviously the GMHF is the ideal place to start a musical exploration of Macon. Make sure to allow plenty of time, and I would save at least half an hour to check out the gift shop. They have lots of stuff you won’t find back home; I swooped on a Lynyrd Skynyrd t-shirt along with various books and magazines about Georgia music. (888) GA-ROCKS, www.gamusichall.com
 

Part of the James Brown display

A stage outfit worn by  Kate Pierson of the B-52's

Part of the Gretsch guitar display

 I know your mama always told you that if you keep acting that way, you’re going to end up in the big house. Well, you know, mom is seldom wrong. But she won’t scold you for your visit to Macon’s Big House, the place where the Allman Brothers lived in their formative years (1970-73). The Big House is the place where Dickey Betts wrote “Blue Sky” and the place that inspired Gregg Allman to write “Please Call Home.” Its massive front porch, where a wind chime fashioned into the band’s signature mushroom logos jingles in the breeze, is where the late Duane Allman and his best friend, the also departed Berry Oakley, hung out for  untold hours. The house is currently owned by Kirk and Kirsten West, who are associates of the Allman Brothers Band. Kirk is the band’s road manager, and he has collected tons of memorabilia, some of which is on display in the two front rooms of the three story house. One of the highlights amongst the guitars, posters and clothing is something that the West’s just recently acquired---the famed gear cases that are seen on the cover of the band’s Live at the Fillmore album. The Big House is in the process of being converted into the Allman Brothers Band Museum, a project that is fully supported by the band. Kirk has hundreds of boxes of memorabilia squirreled away that will get unpacked as the museum expands. Right now the West’s live in the house, but they are happy to show you what they have on display. It’s advisable to call first since the couple spends a lot of time on the road with the band. It’s also cool to just show up and knock on the door if you want to take that chance. Just remember to be respectful---this is the West’s home. Don’t show up inebriated or at some god-awful hour. The Big House is located at 2321 Vineville Avenue. (478) 742-5005, www.thebighousemuseum.org

After a trip to the Big House, you can continue the Allman Brothers theme with a lunch break at the H & H Restaurant. This place has been around forever and was the band’s favorite place to eat. As the legend goes, Louise Hudson, better known as Mama Louise, took pity on the gangly musicians back in the day when they couldn’t afford food. She would lay out the feed for the band while they were at home and they would pay her after they had made some money while out on tour. Eventually, the band made it big and rewarded Mama Louise by taking her on tour with them to cater all their meals. Today, locals and tourists alike stop by the H & H for a big plate of fried chicken and a glass of sweet tea and to check out the memorabilia on the restaurant walls. Leave your camera in the car though, as the restaurant does not allow picture taking inside. But chances are that Mama Louise will be in the kitchen and she is absolutely charming. H & H Restaurant is located at 807 Forsyth St.

The last “must-do” for an Allman Brothers Band fan in Macon is to visit the grave sites of band members Duane Allman and Berry Oakley. The two musicians lost their lives in motorcycle accidents on the streets of Macon approximately a year apart. They are buried next to each other on a quiet hillside in the Rose Hill Cemetery. There is a small wire fence around the graves but there are several spots to take a good picture. Unfortunately, not everyone is respectful of the graves, and they are often vandalized by kooks and souvenir hunters. That’s why you’ll find Candace Oakley, Berry’s sister, there every day from sun-up to sundown. Attempt to climb over the protective fence or do something similarly disrespectful (“Hey man, let’s smoke a joint with Duane…”) and Candace will sic the cops on you in a heartbeat. Otherwise Candace is a sweetheart and she’ll be glad to bend your ear for awhile and she usually carries a stack of photos that she’ll show you, too. Rose Hill Cemetery is located at 1091 Riverside Drive.
 

Soul singer Otis Redding was born in Dawson, Georgia, but Macon is widely considered to be his hometown. Redding died in a 1967 plane crash in Wisconsin, never getting to see his song “(Sittin’ On) the Dock of the Bay” reach #1. Besides various displays at the GMHF, Macon has honored Redding with a seven foot bronze statue that sits in Gateway Park. The setting for the statue is as sublime as Redding’s music, surrounded by cherry trees and a green belt on the bank of the Ocmulgee River. The scene makes for a great souvenir snapshot and is also a fine place to just sit and reflect. Gateway Park is located at the corner of Riverside Drive and Martin Luther King Blvd.
 

A getaway to Macon affords a chance to soak in a musical vibe unlike any other. The city is relaxed, easy to get around in and magnificently beautiful. I chose the Crowne Plaza Hotel as a base as it is centrally located to most attractions and is also within walking distance of nightclubs offering live music. The Crowne Plaza is located at 108 First St., (478) 746-1461, www.crowneplaza.com